Comala: The White people of America and Juan Rulfo.
“I came to Comala because they told me that my father lived here, one Pedro Páramo.”
Guided from nostalgia, and with our book in hand to find the ranch of La Media Luna, we arrived here in search of that town of extremely arid lands, scarce vegetation, overwhelming solitude and ghosts that Juan Rulfo told us since he was children in the novel most important in post-revolutionary Mexico. Our surprise was great when we discovered the opposite.
Just 10 kilometers north of Colima and after traveling 20 minutes, Comala – the land where the comales are made – welcomed us, sheltered to the foothills of the Volcano of Fire and between the crossing of several rivers that make it a extension of fertile lands full of Guanacaste trees, mameyes, avocados, rubber and palm trees.
Place to visit in Comala
The tour starts a few meters from the entrance to the municipality in the Main Square, a cheerful and clean place dominated by white benches, the parish, a discreet Municipal Presidency and the garden kiosk, brought from Germany. Be careful to let the photo pass! On one of the benches on the corner, Juan Rulfo sits quietly telling his stories to the travelers.
Parish of San Miguel del Espiritu Santo: You will find it easily, flanked by its two contrasting towers between tiles and bricks. This neoclassical church was built in 1,884 and is considered the main historical monument of Comala. Although at first glance it may seem architecturally humble, it has an exquisite coral window as well as a beautiful quarry arch. San Miguel Arcángel is located in the arch of the second floor, taking care of the town of which he is the patron.
Nogueras Cultural Complex:
This cultural space is located 2 kilometers to the northeast, within La Ex Hacienda de Nogueras, famous in the region for having been an important sugar farm that now serves as a vast natural, artistic and herbal research space cared for by the University of Colima. Inside you will visit a botanical garden with different kinds of crops and ornamental plants in addition to the Alejandro Rangel Hidalgo University Museum that contains five rooms where you can see a collection of pre-Hispanic pieces, paintings, furniture and blacksmithing.
The most famous body of water in Comala is sheltered at the foot of the Colima Volcano, waiting for you to take spectacular photographs between blue and green collages.
At 1,425 meters above sea level (900 more than the capital of Colima) it is perfect for camping on the heights and doing the best natural activities: from a busy horse ride, gotcha, the relaxing boat ride or a barbecue on Family while renting a cabin.
Among the animals you can see from deer, to the famous chachalacas!
If you have more than one weekend visit spaces such as El Remate – an old power plant famous for bathing ponds, it’s museum and landscapes from the Rio Grande gorge – La Laguna María or the Coffee Bus Route (6 hours of pure sensory pleasure for any cafeinomano).
The same inhabitants repeat it to us until they grow tired, it is two Comalas, where the real one far exceeds the literary town covered with magical realism: a familiar and effervescent place full of excitement, dominated by rows of white houses protected under red tiles coppery, owners of beautiful inner courtyards of the mid-twentieth century, cowboys riding through cool cobbled streets full of radiant people; completely away from the stress of the city.
When you walk through its streets we immediately understand its decoration as one of the magical towns of Mexico: while its architecture is preserved from the times of the revolution – declared as an area of historical monuments – the topography of the place makes an important influence of the nuclei converge indigenous people still in Suchitlán (where you can see rustic houses and local traditions from when the majority language was Nahuatl), La Cofradía and Zacualpan.
How to get:
If you travel from Guadalajara to Colima:
Blablacar Guadalajara-Colima: approximately $ 170-200.
Estrella Blanca / Omnibus de México: approximately $ 250.
Transportation to the surrounding municipalities is between 6 and 30 pesos depending on whether Cofradía-Suchitlán, Nogueras or El Naranjo goes. For updated information visit https://colima.rutadirecta.com/
Where to eat:
In Los Portales there is a great variety of restaurants, canteens and unmissable botanero centers for its concept: as you order drinks, the waiters will come to your table to leave you with food and typical snacks to accompany you for free, so enjoy the conversation quietly !
Find a dessert at the traditional La Trinidad Bakery and if you want to listen to vernacular music with a show, at night the must-see is the Don Comalón ranch restaurant.
What to buy:
Carry a bag of Comaltec coffee, a delicious traditional picón bread, savor a tuba with peanut or pomegranate punch; Get fresh cheese and typical sweets. To bring a souvenir the best option is the multicolored masks of Suchitlán and the ornaments of local woods made of mahogany and parota.
Lodging in downtown area (doubles): from $ 450 pesos.
Camping in natural areas camping: $ 70 p / p (you have the right to put your tent and spend the night.
Rural cabins: from $ 150 pesos p / person p / night.
Tourist Sites: they vary between $ 10 and $ 60 pesos.
We recommend it: To get away from the city for a weekend.
It is ideal if you want to take the family and take pictures. The best months are August to November if you want to celebrate the mezcal fair, national holidays or All Saints’ Day (Day of the Dead).
To be aware of all activities we recommend you visit: